Bahamian Fried Snapper with Peas 'n' Rice

The Bahamas are a short flight from most of the US and I want their food on our map as more than a resort buffet. Fried fish with peas 'n' rice is what Bahamians actually eat, and it teaches two things I want: a proper pigeon-pea rice, cousin to Jamaican rice and peas and Carolina hoppin' John, and how to pan-fry fish so it stays crisp without a deep fryer. The honest adaptation is that Bahamian fish fries use whole fish, scored and deep-fried; I am using fillets and a half-inch of oil because that fits a weeknight and a small kitchen. There is almost no heat as written, so my son's plate only needs the pepper left out of his relish.

• Snapper: Red snapper fillets are ideal; grouper, tilapia or any firm white fish substitutes. Skin-on fillets hold together better in the pan.
• Pigeon peas: Canned green pigeon peas (Goya and others) are in the Latin aisle of most supermarkets. Canned black-eyed peas are the fallback.
• Fresh thyme: It seasons both the fish and the rice and is not optional in Bahamian cooking. Dried works at a third of the amount.
• Goat pepper: The Bahamian name for a Scotch bonnet-type chile. A habanero or a few slices of jalapeño in the relish is the stand-in, and it stays off the small plate.

1. Pat the fish dry. Squeeze the juice of 1 lime over the fillets, season both sides with salt, pepper, the leaves from 2 thyme sprigs and the allspice, and refrigerate while you cook the rice.
2. Dice the onion, bell pepper and celery. Mince the garlic. Chop the bacon.
3. Drain the pigeon peas, keeping the liquid; add water to make 2 1/2 cups.
4. Make the relish: dice the tomatoes and 2 tablespoons of the onion, toss with the juice of 1 lime, a pinch of salt and a few thyme leaves. Slice the chile into a separate dish for the adults.
5. Mix the flour with the paprika, 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper in a shallow dish.

1. Cook the bacon in the rice pot over medium heat until the fat renders, 3–4 minutes. Add the onion, bell pepper and celery with a pinch of salt and cook 5 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook 2 minutes, stirring, until the paste darkens.
2. Add the pigeon peas, 3 thyme sprigs, the pea liquid and water, and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, stir in the rice, return to a boil, then cover and cook on the lowest heat for 18 minutes. Rest, covered, 5 minutes, remove the thyme stems and fluff.
3. About 10 minutes before the rice finishes, heat 1/2 inch of oil in the skillet over medium-high heat until a pinch of flour sizzles at once (about 350°F).
4. Dredge the fillets in the seasoned flour, shaking off the excess. Lay them in the oil skin-side down, away from you, without crowding. Fry 3–4 minutes until the edges are deep golden, turn carefully, and fry 2–3 minutes more, until the fish flakes and the crust is crisp.
5. Drain on a rack or paper towels and sprinkle with salt and a squeeze of lime while hot.

Put a big spoonful of peas 'n' rice on each plate, lay the fish beside it, and spoon the tomato-onion relish over the fish. Lime wedges and hot sauce go on the table, and the sliced chile stays in its own dish so my son's relish is just tomato, onion and lime; the fish and rice themselves are mild. Bahamians would add coleslaw or potato salad and fried plantain. The fish is best within minutes of frying; leftover rice keeps three days and is good the next morning with a fried egg.