Pepesup (Fish Pepper Soup)

Equatorial Guinea is Africa's only Spanish-speaking country, and its food sits where Spanish, Fang, Bubi and Cameroonian traditions meet; pepesup is the dish Wikipedia names as the country's signature, so it is the honest starting point. What I want to learn is the pepper-soup spice box: calabash nutmeg, grains of selim and alligator pepper are three spices I have never cooked with, and Wikipedia describes their effect as "nutty, bitter, woodsy, and floral notes, as well as warmth," a flavor family our kitchen has not touched. It is weeknight-feasible because a clear fish soup is one of the fastest dinners there is: the broth simmers twenty minutes and the fish needs eight. The heat is real, so I'll ladle off a milder bowl for my son before the chile goes in.

• Pepper soup spice: African markets and online shops sell a ready-ground "pepper soup spice" blend, the easiest route; look for calabash nutmeg (ehuru), grains of selim (uda) and alligator pepper on the label. To substitute, grind 1 teaspoon black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon allspice, 1/4 teaspoon cloves and 1/2 teaspoon coriander; not the same, but in the right warm, woodsy place.
• Firm fish: Pepesup is often made with whole fish or steaks; for a weeknight, thick skinless fillets of cod, halibut, grouper or snapper hold together best. Thin flaky fish like tilapia falls apart in soup.
• Fresh ginger and garlic: Used generously; grate them so they melt into the broth.
• Scent leaf or basil: Scent leaf (efirin, a West African basil) is sold frozen at African markets; Thai or Italian basil is a reasonable substitute.
• Habanero: The chile of choice for heat and fruitiness. One for a warming soup, two for the real thing.

1. Start the rice: rinse 1 1/2 cups rice and cook with 2 1/4 cups water and a pinch of salt by the package timing. If using plantains, peel, cut into 2-inch chunks and boil in salted water 20 minutes until tender.
2. Cut the fish into 2-inch chunks, season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and the juice of half a lime, and refrigerate.
3. Grate half the onion and dice the rest. Grate the ginger and garlic. Dice the tomato. Slice one habanero thin; leave the second whole if using. Tear the basil leaves.
4. If using whole spices, toast 1 minute in a dry pan and grind to a powder.

1. Heat the oil in the soup pot over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook 4 minutes until soft. Add the grated onion, ginger and garlic and stir 1 minute until fragrant.
2. Add the tomato, pepper soup spice, dried shrimp if using and the crumbled bouillon cube. Stir 1 minute, pour in 5 cups water and add the whole habanero if using one. Bring to a boil, then simmer uncovered 15 minutes so the spices bloom and the broth turns pale amber.
3. Season the broth with salt; it should be aromatic and clearly peppery. Ladle about 1 1/2 cups into a small saucepan for the mild bowl and keep it at a simmer.
4. Add the sliced habanero to the main pot. Lower the fish into both pots in a single layer, cover, and simmer gently 6–8 minutes, until just opaque and flaking; do not stir hard or it will break up.
5. Turn off the heat, add the basil to both pots and a squeeze of lime, and let it stand 2 minutes.

Put a scoop of rice (or boiled plantain) in each deep bowl and ladle the soup over it; pepesup is also eaten on its own with the starch alongside, and a lime wedge at the table is standard. My son's bowl comes from the small saucepan without the sliced chile, and the whole habanero and extra slices go to the adults, who are meant to sweat a little. The soup is best fresh; leftover broth and fish keep two days and reheat gently without boiling, and the broth alone is very good the next day with rice and more basil.