Liberian Potato Greens with Chicken

Liberia is on our map partly because of its unusual history with the United States, and partly because Liberian-American cooks consistently name potato greens as the dish that means home. I want to learn the West African way with greens, which is nothing like a quick sauté: the leaves are chopped almost to a paste and cooked long enough to become a sauce, and the meats are browned first so the stew is built on their flavor. It is weeknight-feasible because, once chopped, everything goes into one pot and simmers while the rice cooks. There is a lesson in shopping too: finding sweet potato leaves at an African market is the kind of errand that makes a dinner night feel like a small trip.

• Sweet potato leaves: Fresh or frozen at African groceries (sometimes labeled potato greens, or camote tops at Filipino markets). If unavailable, use 2 pounds of fresh spinach or two 1-pound bags of frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed; milder and softer, but recognizably itself.
• Smoked turkey: Liberian cooks use smoked fish, dried fish or smoked meat for depth; a smoked turkey wing or drumstick from the regular supermarket is the easiest version.
• Red palm oil (optional): Traditional and worth seeking at an African market for its color and faint carrot-like flavor. Neutral oil is a common substitute even in Liberia.
• Habanero: Liberian food is hot. One whole chile in the pot, more chopped for the adults' bowls.
• Bouillon cubes: A Maggi or Knorr cube is standard and does much of the seasoning.

1. If using sweet potato leaves, strip the leaves from the thicker stems, wash well in two changes of water, and chop very fine: pulse in a food processor in batches until finely minced but not puréed. If using spinach, chop fresh spinach the same way, or squeeze thawed frozen spinach dry in a clean towel.
2. Cut the chicken into 1 1/2-inch pieces and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and black pepper. Pull the smoked turkey meat off the bone in chunks; save the bone.
3. Dice one onion and slice the other. Mince the garlic. Leave one chile whole; mince the second if using.
4. Dissolve the bouillon cubes in 2 cups hot water.
5. Start the rice: rinse 1 1/2 cups rice and cook with 2 1/4 cups water and a pinch of salt by the package timing.

1. Heat the oil in the Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken for 3–4 minutes per side; it does not need to cook through. Move to a plate.
2. Add the diced onion to the pot and cook 5 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute.
3. Add the smoked turkey meat and bone, the dried shrimp if using, the bouillon water and the whole chile. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook 10 minutes so the broth takes on the smoke.
4. Stir in the chopped greens and the sliced onion. The pot will look crowded; stir until the greens wilt and sink, about 3 minutes. Return the chicken and any juices.
5. Simmer uncovered over medium-low heat 20–25 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes. The greens will darken to deep green, the liquid will cook down and the oil will rise and show at the edges; that shine is the sign Liberian cooks look for. Add a splash of water if it threatens to stick.
6. Remove the turkey bone and the whole chile. Taste for salt; the smoked turkey and bouillon may have covered it. Add a squeeze of lemon if the stew tastes flat, and serve minced chile alongside for the adults.

Spoon a bed of rice into each bowl and ladle the greens and meat on top, sharing out the chicken and smoked turkey; Liberians eat it with a spoon. The stew as written is only gently warm, so my son's bowl is the same as ours, and the minced habanero goes in a small dish for the adults. Leftovers keep three days and taste better on the second day; reheat gently with a little water.