Boerenkool Stamppot with Rookworst

This is the dish Dutch friends name first when asked what they ate growing up, and it is almost aggressively simple, which is exactly why I want to try it: can potatoes, kale and a sausage really carry a dinner? Kale is a vegetable my son tolerates in chips and not much else, and mashing it into potatoes with butter is a sneakier delivery system than anything I have tried. The whole thing is one pot plus a saucepan, with no browning or timing to juggle, so it is a true low-effort weeknight. I also want to learn the gravy-well trick and understand why the Dutch wait for the first frost before they will eat kale at all.

• Rookworst: A smooth, lightly smoked Dutch pork sausage sold in a horseshoe shape. US substitutes, in order: a Dutch import from a specialty grocer or online, then smoked kielbasa (closest in texture and smoke), then any good smoked pork sausage. For the vegetarian option, use a plant-based smoked sausage (Field Roast or similar) and vegetable gravy.
• Curly kale: Boerenkool is a curly kale; the standard bunches in US stores are right. Pre-chopped bagged kale saves the one tedious step. Lacinato kale works but is sweeter and less traditional.
• Starchy potatoes: Russets or Yukon Golds mash well. Waxy potatoes turn gluey.
• Dutch mustard: Coarse, sharp mustard such as Zaanse or Groninger is traditional at the table; a good Dijon or a grainy mustard stands in.
• Gravy (jus): Many Dutch homes use a packet. A quick gravy from the sausage water, butter, flour and stock takes five minutes and is given below.

1. Peel the potatoes and cut them into 1 1/2-inch chunks.
2. Strip the kale leaves from the tough stems and chop the leaves finely, about 1/2-inch pieces; the Dutch cut it quite small so it melts into the mash. Rinse well. Skip this if using bagged chopped kale.
3. Dice the onion. Cut the bacon into 1/2-inch pieces if using.
4. Set the sausage on the counter so it is not fridge-cold going into the pot.

1. Put the potatoes in a large pot with enough cold water to cover, add 1 teaspoon salt, and bring to a boil. Pile the kale on top of the potatoes (it does not need to be submerged), cover, and cook 20–25 minutes until the potatoes are completely tender and the kale is soft.
2. After 10 minutes, nestle the sausage on top of the kale under the lid so it heats through gently in the steam; rookworst and kielbasa are already cooked and only need warming. (If the package says to simmer it in water, use a separate small pot.)
3. Meanwhile, cook the bacon in a small skillet until crisp; drain on paper towels. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat and soften the onion in it for 4–5 minutes.
4. Quick gravy: in a small saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon butter, whisk in the flour and cook 1 minute, then whisk in the stock and simmer 3–4 minutes until it coats a spoon. Season with salt, pepper and a drop of vinegar.
5. Lift out the sausage and set it aside. Drain the potatoes and kale well, saving a cup of the cooking water. Return them to the pot, add the remaining 3 tablespoons butter and the milk, and mash coarsely; the texture should be rustic, not smooth. Loosen with a little cooking water if stiff. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg, and stir in the onion and most of the bacon.

Mound the stamppot on each plate, press a hollow in the top with the back of a spoon, and fill it with gravy. Slice the sausage into thick coins and lay them alongside or on top, add a stripe of mustard, and scatter the rest of the bacon. Pickles on the table are traditional and cut the richness. Nothing here needs toning down for a child; I plan to put the mustard on the side so my son can skip it. Leftover stamppot keeps for three days and is excellent formed into patties and pan-fried in butter until crisp, which the Dutch do on purpose.